We progressed though Mwanza via dirt roads to Rwanda - also the main truck supply route to that country. We were in Rwanda (official language French) mainly to see the Parc de Volcans - the national park on the borders of Rwanda, Zaire and Uganda, any two of which seem to be closed to tourists because of internal troubles. This park is home to the gorillas popularized by Dian Fossey’s book ‘Gorillas in the mist’, and was another unforgettable experience - a stiff half-day hike to find one of the four gorilla families that are habituated to tourist visits, and an hour of watching the group - the adults spend most of the time eating (very destructive, as they may eat the tree bark of up to four trees each per day). The kids however are very curious, and you can make faces and watch them play with each other in a way that reminds us of our own childhood.